Experience Siena's Palio, the centuries-old bareback horse race that runs through the city's Piazza del Campo. See chapter 7.

• Foldout map, plus detailed maps throughout

• Exact prices, directions, opening hours,and other practical information

• Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants,plus sights, shopping, and nightlife

• Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas

• Insider tips from local expert authors