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Wave Runup and Overtopping on Beaches and Coastal Structures
Nobuhisa Kobayashi
出版
University of Delaware, Ocean Engineering Laboratory, Center for Applied Coastal Research
, 1997
URL
http://books.google.com.hk/books?id=V4I2PQAACAAJ&hl=&source=gbs_api
註釋
Wave runup and overtopping on inclined coastal structures and wave runup on beaches are reviewed together to examine the ranges of wave runup processes occurring on slopes of different inclinations. Laboratory experiments on regular wave runup and overtopping on coastal structures are reviewed first to provide historical perspec- tive. More recent laboratory experiments on irregular wave runup and overtopping on coastal structures are summarized to show the improved quantitative understanding due to the improved capabilities for irregular wave experiments. Field experiments on wave runup on beaches are then reviewed to discuss the possible dominance and causes of low frequency shoreline oscillations on gently sloping beaches. The recent development of time dependent numerical models is reviewed to indicate the rapid progress of the numerical capabilities of predicting irregular wave runup on inclined coastal structures and beaches. This review indicates that the improved quantitative understanding of irregular wave runup and overtopping on inclined coastal structures and irregular wave runup on beaches has essentially been limited to normally incident waves on coastal structures and beaches of alongshore uniformity. Future experimental and numerical studies are suggested in this review.