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Life of Brine
Phil Jarratt
其他書名
A Surfer's Journey
出版
Hardie Grant Publishing
, 2017-08-01
主題
Biography & Autobiography / Sports
Sports & Recreation / Water Sports / Surfing
ISBN
1743585187
9781743585184
URL
http://books.google.com.hk/books?id=gBg0DwAAQBAJ&hl=&source=gbs_api
EBook
SAMPLE
註釋
“In the not-so-small world of surfing, Phil Jarratt has seen it all. Luckily for us, he’s a fearless, funny storyteller, with a reporter’s unsentimental eye and an endearing modesty. But his memoir is, above all, a haunting self-portrait: the boy practising drop-knee cutbacks in his mother’s full-length mirror in mid-century Wollongong becomes a man.”
William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of
Barbarian Days
Life of Brine
is the memoir of Phil Jarratt, one of the world’s best-known chroniclers of surfing culture whose lifelong pursuit of the perfect wave has placed him in the midst of some of the most exciting moments in surfing’s modern history.
Jarratt, who has courted controversy in his long career as a journalist, editor and documentarian, pulls no punches as he rides an exhilarating wave of nostalgia from the sixties up until now, through the heady days of drugs, alcohol and excess in Bali and Biarritz and other exotic locations in between. Filled with debauchery, reflection and insight, this is a book that will be devoured by surfers young and old.