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Prediction of Wave Height of Wind Generated Seas in Finite Water Depth

出版	Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, 1984
URL	http://books.google.com.hk/books?id=mq0PAQAAIAAJ&hl=&source=gbs_api

註釋This paper presents a method to statistically predict peaks, troughs, and peak-to-trough excursions of waves in finite water depth such as waves in harbors, bays, and near-shore and offshore seas. The probability density functions are developed based on the concept that waves in finite water depth are a non-Gaussian random process with parameters which depends on the sea severity and water depth. As an example of application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for water depth of 8.8 m (28.8 ft) in a sea of significant wave height of 3.2 m (104 ft). The results of computation show that the newly-developed probability density functions of peaks and troughs both reasonably agree with the histograms constructed from measured data obtained during the ARSLOE Project. (Author).